Ciao,
what’s up?
This month, I'm writing to you from a cozy coffee shop in Lisbon, where I've spent two incredible days exploring one of my favorite cities revising the Paris book and only venturing out for beers in the evening. 😅
Naturally, I've added these taprooms to my Lisbon Food Guide and updated a few spots in it. I've also updated my Lisbon Street Art Guide with the one place I've managed to visit: Estrada de Chelas, where Bordalo II recently organized a festival inviting his friends to paint.
Despite spending most of my time working on the Paris book, I've thoroughly enjoyed these 48 hours in Lisbon, which remains one of my favorite cities in the world. I wasn't sure if my love for the city would be rekindled, especially after reading several articles about over-tourism and seeing my local friends moving away. However, much like Rome (my hometown) and other tourist-heavy cities, the experience depends on where you go and what you do.
When I'm in Lisbon, I usually stick to areas like Olaias, Xabregas, Beato, Marvila, and Braço de Prata. These places are closer to the airport and the city's industrial warehouses than to touristy areas like Alfama and Bairro Alto, which have indeed become as unpleasant as the above-mentioned articles suggest. It's crucial, thus, not to generalize: while the city center of Lisbon (like those of Rome or Paris) are becoming increasingly less enjoyable, venturing into the less touristy areas I write about on the blog (or exploring cities with me! 😉) will give you an authentic experience of the place.
I'm planning a Lisbon trip in 2025 to prove this point! Until then, you can join me in exploring two other great cities: London (August 23-27 > Read the Program) and Athens (October 11-14).
See you on the road,
Giulia
ps. If you only click on one link from this newsletter, make it the CVTà Street Fest behind-the-scenes vlog. In this video, you’ll get a true peek behind the scenes of Italy’s top street art festival. You'll experience the atmosphere of the busiest week in the semi-abandoned village of Civitacampomarano, watch the street artists in action, and gain some insights into my life.
Clean walls, silent people.
Decorated walls, fake people.
This month’s essay is a brief reflection on an event that occurred earlier this month in Grottaglie, Puglia, Italy, where local authorities, preparing for the G7 summit, painted over a famous piece by Brazilian street artists Os Gemeos.
This act highlights a troubling trend where propaganda and superficial beautification overshadow genuine street art. The authorities replaced an authentic street art piece that resonated with the community with a propaganda mural designed to impress international visitors.
This action reflects a superficial approach to urban beautification, prioritizing temporary appearances over preserving true cultural and artistic identity. The Os Gemeos piece was more than art; it was a symbol of the genuine spirit of Italy’s first street art festival, FAME, born in Grottaglie in 2008. Its removal marks the end of an era, distancing public spaces from the essence of street art, which thrives on authenticity and community engagement.
Street art, in its truest form, is a dialogue with the community, reflecting its identity and struggles. Erasing such works risks silencing these voices and replacing them with hollow representations lacking depth and meaning.
We discussed this topic in depth last month, so for those who missed my thoughts on the state of festivals today, here’s the link to my previous ramble:
I also want to share some of the feedback I got from that email because I loved reading your thoughts on the topic:
Keep sharing your thoughts by replying to this email 😉
See you in London,
Giulia
Explore LONDON with me!
Following our incredible street art travel experiences in Paris and Madrid, it’s time to meet in London for another unforgettable journey!
Are you ready to join me in this exploration of street art, culture, and so much more?
Join me for a 5-day London Street Art Tour, where we’ll explore the urban art scene that makes this city so unique. Let’s dive into the heart of London street art and discover the hidden gems together!
NEW on the blog!
Behind the Scenes of CVTà Street Fest 2024!
Come with me behind the scenes of CVTà Street Fest, Italy's most important street art festival, founded by Alice Pasquini in 2016. This year's artists are: Snik (UK), Octavi Serra (ES), Strok (NO) and Taxis (GR).
In this vlog you'll see them at work, alongside more crazy things that happened during the production week. Enjoy the video!
But wait, there’s also an article, in which I’m sharing the stories behind the new artworks at CVTà Street Fest.
WOOL Festival: Contextual Art and Identity in Covilhã, Portugal.
After CVTà, I flew to Portugal to meet the people behind the WOOL Festival, one of Europe's pioneering street art festivals, celebrated for its community engagement and local identity focus.
It was an incredible experience, not only because the festival has been on my bucket list for over a decade, but also because it allowed me to discover the unique city of Covilhã. Nestled among Portugal's highest mountains and steeped in an industrial past, Covilhã proved to be a truly special place!
Announcing the Media Partnership with Stencibility Festival (Estonia)
In a couple of days, I’m traveling to Tartu, Estonia, to bring you behind the scenes of Stencibility Festival, an annual celebration of independent street art.
As a proud media partner, I am thrilled to support a festival that celebrates true artistic freedom, where artists can let their imaginations run wild, unrestrained by the demands of the traditional art world. I believe festivals like Stencibility are crucial for the health of the art form, reminding us of the importance of maintaining the raw, unfiltered essence of street art in an era increasingly dominated by large-scale, commissioned works.
Announcing the Media Partnership with Vision Art Festival (Switzerland)
After Stencibility, I’m off to Crans-Montana, on the Swiss Alps, for the 10th edition of Vision Art Festival, the urban art festival that gathers artists from across the globe to create murals and installations against the backdrop of breathtaking mountain vistas.
Curated by Gregory Pages and Yasha Young (the woman behind Berlin’s Urban Nation Museum), this festival seamlessly blends urban art with the natural splendor of its surroundings.
Handpicked by yours truly
Two newsletters ago, 79% of you were excited to see this old segment return. So, as you asked, I'm now sharing my favorite cultural discoveries more often. 🤓
TV Show: The second season of Hacks (Netflix) is out, and I’ve already watched the whole thing.
Cinema: I'm excited to see "Inside Out 2" and will probably go tonight. 😉
Book: One of the best Italian books I read last year has just been translated into English (after Spanish, French, and German), and I’m thrilled to finally recommend it here: Bernardo Zannoni’s "My Stupid Intentions." This novel delves into existential questions and the harsh realities of life and death, exploring profound themes through the perspective of an unusual protagonist: a beech marten named Archy.
Music: I’m in love with
‘s newest playlist, "Posta Creativa," perfect for any creative work. I was already a big fan of her "Vai col Flow" playlist, which I often use as background music while writing.Reading list: It wouldn't be a "Handpicked by yours truly" selection without including a link to David Sedaris' latest essay available online. Here it is: https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/06/17/notes-on-a-last-minute-safari
Stuff I write when I’m not here
UP MAGAZINE - “A Portrait of the Dutch Graffiti Queen: Mick La Rock”
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Come sempre grazie Giulia per farci scoprire angoli poco convenzionali della nostra Europa. Ps. Il murales del G7 è osceno :)
Grande come sempre Giu! Sarebbe un sogno se trovassi il budget per Londra :D.
Nel frattempo fa sempre piacere trovare persone che condividono le stesse idee sul muralismo. Attendo con ansia i nuovi video