A brief dispatch from Barcelona
Miss.Printed's art and more cool stuff, in your 1st-of-the-month newsletter.
Ciao,
How are you?
I just got back from Barcelona, where I did some in-depth research to give you the most up-to-date Barcelona Street Art Travel Guide (coming soon on the blog), and I also scouted out some new spots for Blocal’s Barcelona Google Map, which allows you to enjoy the city beyond the usual tourists spots. (I already added the map to the database, which you find at the bottom of each newsletter).
I already visited Barcelona in 2016 and, before that, in 2010 -and so never prior to 2006, which marked a turning point in graffiti culture in Barcelona. In 2006, the Ajuntament passed a new ordinance to combat civil disturbances, which put a dent in the street art scene.
However, I'm happy to report that on my recent trip, I found that the street art culture is still very much alive and kicking. From fully tagged doors to painted shutters, throw-ups and stickers plastered everywhere, you can see the city's vibrant street art culture at every turn. While murals are harder to come by in the city, they can be found in nearby villages, easily accessible by train.
I spent five days in Barcelona, and it felt like I was there for two weeks because I did so much exploring. I covered every inch of the city, and especially the suburbs, thanks to the excellent metro system. Seriously, if only Rome had a metro system like Barcelona's, my life would be a dream!
I tried to visit the central neighborhoods too, but they were packed with people. I always had to leave ahead of my schedule because I couldn't stand having so many people in my photos or waiting in line for a simple coffee at a bar. Instead, I preferred to explore the less crowded areas of the city, walk along the vast avenues, and discover the places where locals hang out.
Barcelona has so much to offer, and of course, the beach is a must-see spot. I checked it out myself, but unfortunately, it was a bit windy and there was a loud construction site next to the sea, which spoiled the view. Construction sites seem to be popping up all over the city! I can't help but wonder if they are getting ready for the tourist season or putting that European money to good use after the pandemic.
Everywhere you go in Barcelona, there's drilling, hammering, and building happening. The area where I stayed, Poblenou, was once filled with abandoned factories covered in graffiti (that’s how I remembered it from my previous trip and the reason why I wanted to stay there). But now, it's transforming into luxury condos, glassy skyscrapers, and fancy hotels. Not only the original charm of the area is gone, but also the constant noise coming from construction sites is a bit overwhelming.
However, there is a bright side to all this construction. The panels fencing off these construction sites are fully covered with graffiti, adding a unique artistic touch to the cityscape. While there may not be many large-scale murals in the city, the overall surface of these panels provides ample space for creative expression.
In these five days, I spent most of my time walking around the city, stopping every now and then to indulge in some delicious vegetarian tapas. (and now I’m updating my Barcelona Food Guide with some veggie recommendations, stay tuned). The weather was absolutely gorgeous, with bright, sunny skies and the vibrant light of cities that are on the sea.
Me trying to stay on schedule was in dissonance with the relaxed vibe of the locals. Everyone was so chill and laid-back, especially outside of the touristy areas. The pace of the city is refreshingly slow, particularly in the supermanzanas1 - these large pedestrian areas where people gather to chat, kids play, and happy dogs roam around.
Barcelona truly is the city of happiness! The people are smiling and seem to enjoy life to the fullest. One of my favorite examples of this is Pez's iconic street art - a grinning fish that perfectly encapsulates the city's chill vibe.
I've brought back with me the invitation to slow down and smile more often, as well as the 2597 photos I took to document the amazing street art and graffiti scene in Barcelona. Stay tuned for more on that!
Until next month,
Giulia
New on the blog!
Miss.Printed: Filling the gap between street art, photography and collage art.
I had the pleasure to encounter Miss.Printed’s little figurines in the streets of Aberdeen, Scotland, during the world-leading street art festival Nuart Aberdeen. On that occasion, I sat down with her and talked about her art practice, the widespread community of collage artists, and the impression that collage art is considered a craft by most because many practitioners are women.
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Handpicked by yours truly
First of all, I’m sharing some street art documentary movies I watched to get ready for the Barcelona trip. They are available for free on youtube (full length), so grab the popcorn, sit back and enjoy!
BCN Rise&Fall by Aleix Gordo Hostau:
Las Calles Hablan by Justin Donlon:
I love Med by David Hernández Alcaraz:
Grenoble Street Art Festival is hiring! Unfortunately my French is too poor for me to join their staff, but if you make it please invite me over this summer!
Blek Le Rat is on show at Woodbury House (London, UK) until April 12th. Send me pics if you go!
Bordalo II is on show at Luis Maluf Gallery (Sao Paolo, Brazil) until April 3rd. Don’t send me pics if you go, there’s only one photo of Bordalo II you should send me, and you should know which one :D :D
Vhils is doing an underwater exhibition to raise awareness on defending the ocean! Until April 15th, you can swim next to Vhils’ artworks off the coast of Albufeira, Portugal. More info here.
I discovered this amazing Instagram account of a guy playing piano in front of New York street art. Check it out!
A supermanzana is a group of several city blocks that are joined together to form a larger unit. The purpose of creating a supermanzana is to reduce traffic in residential areas and increase public space for pedestrians, cyclists and green areas. The idea is to limit car traffic to the perimeter of the supermanzana, with interior streets reserved for walking, cycling and local traffic only. Supermanzanas typically measure around 400 by 400 meters and consist of nine square blocks. They are designed to be walkable, with pedestrian-friendly streets and sidewalks, and are often connected by bike lanes and public transit. The concept of supermanzanas has been implemented in several neighborhoods of Barcelona since the early 2000s, and has been credited with reducing traffic, improving air quality, and creating more livable and attractive public spaces.
That street art pianist is amazing, love that