👋 Ciao, I'm Giulia Blocal, your street art insider. This is Beyond the Postcards, the travel side of Beyond the Walls, my long-running newsletter on street art, graffiti, off-the-beaten-path travel, and a bit of my life in between.
I’ve been sending out a monthly newsletter since September 2014, that’s 12 years of street art stories landing in your inbox on the 1st of every month. To celebrate this milestone, from this September I’m doubling the dose: alongside the usual editorial, I’m launching a new travel column: Beyond the Postcards ✈️
Each month, Beyond the Postcards will take us to a different city, diving into its street art scene and uncovering all those offbeat, overlooked places you won’t find in guidebooks (unless it’s one of mine 😉).
First stop: Lisbon 🇵🇹 one of my favorite cities, and a place I always find myself coming back to.
Let’s go!
Lisbon has a way of getting under your skin.
It’s not just the tiled façades or the miradouros catching the light at the right moment, it’s the backstreets, the markets, the gritty pixação on abandoned buildings, and all those corners where paint is still drying on a wall.
This Lisbon mini-guide isn’t a checklist of tourist spots; it’s my own map of the city, shaped by weeks (and years) of wandering, meeting artists, and discovering places that don’t make it onto postcards.
Today, I’m taking you through neighborhoods where street art tells local stories, cafés where I’ve spent entire afternoons writing, and the occasional spot that I stumbled on by accident and never wanted to leave.
Think of it less as a guidebook (that one’s coming in 2026! 🤞) and more as me handing you my notebook, the one with paint smudges on the cover and wine stains on the corner.
And so, subscribe to the newsletter if you haven’t already, and let’s get started!
🇵🇹 In this Lisbon mini-guide you will find:
Lisbon’s Best Street Art Neighborhoods
My Favorite Museums & Art Galleries
Non-Touristy Spots You Shouldn’t Miss
Where to Eat & Drink Between Murals
My Interactive Lisbon Map
Films, Podcasts, Music & Newsletters to Get in the Lisbon Mood
Lisbon’s Best Street Art Neighborhoods
1 - Amoreiras
Home to one of the oldest graffiti Halls of Fame in Portugal, Amoreiras holds a special place in the country’s urban art history. Since the passing of graffiti legend Nomen, the walls here have become a living tribute to his legacy, with fresh pieces appearing regularly in his honour. Beyond the Hall of Fame, you’ll find murals scattered throughout the area, each adding colour and personality to its streets. The neighbourhood itself blends upscale flair with striking architecture and a subtle touch of nostalgia, making it one of Lisbon’s most self-contained yet down-to-earth corners.
2 - Bairro Padre Cruz
On Lisbon’s northern edge in Carnide, Bairro Padre Cruz is one of the largest social housing neighbourhoods in the Iberian Peninsula, and over the past decade, it has grown into one of the city’s most exciting street art destinations. Some murals have been lost over time, but many still remain, covering walls with stories rooted in local life. The turning point came with the festival MURO_LX, particularly its 2016 edition, when dozens of artists left their mark across the district. While street art has brought colour and attention, the neighbourhood has kept its gritty, lived-in soul. Beyond the walls, there’s a strong sense of community, with markets, cultural projects, and youth initiatives that speak to a Lisbon that’s authentic, complex, and very much alive.
3 - Alto de Ajuda
Tucked between Belém and Alcântara, Ajuda is one of Lisbon’s oldest, and most overlooked, neighbourhoods. On its upper side, Alto de Ajuda has quietly become an emerging spot for murals, with notable works by Regg Salgado and Mariana Duarte Santos, part of a project curated by G.A.U. – Galeria de Arte Urbana. The district itself still feels grounded and residential, far from the city’s polished tourist routes. Its narrow lanes, quiet plazas, and hillside views carry traces of its past as a rural village gradually absorbed into Lisbon. Here you’ll find corner tascas, small houses with fading tiles, seniors chatting on benches, and local grocery shops instead of curated boutiques. Ajuda doesn’t shout for attention, but its mix of royal history, working-class roots, and lived-in authenticity gives it a quiet depth -and a mural scene worth the climb.
4 - Graça
Perched on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, Graça is a classic street art stop, with a healthy mix of murals, posters, stencils, painted shutters, and graffiti. Hotspots like Caracol da Graça and Rua da Senhora da Glória showcase this variety, from large-scale works to small, surprising details tucked into doorways and corners. Traditionally a working-class neighbourhood, Graça has held onto its everyday character despite growing attention from visitors and creatives. Its charm is in the blend: tiled façades and old bakeries alongside contemporary cafés and artist studios, all set against sweeping city views.
5 - Chelas
In eastern Lisbon, Estrada de Chelas (a long road in one of the city’s largest social housing areas) has recently been transformed into a street art destination thanks to Bordalo II. Curating the festival Cor de Chelas, he invited street artist friends to paint alongside him, filling walls with collaborative works. Locals have nicknamed the stretch “Bordalo Park,” as its revival is closely tied to his initiative.
Chelas itself is a complex and often misunderstood district, built in the 1970s and ’80s to rehouse families from informal settlements and rural migrants after the Carnation Revolution. Instead of the winding streets of Lisbon’s historic neighbourhoods, it was designed with modernist ambitions: wide avenues, high-rise apartment blocks, and open public spaces. Over time, neglect and stigma shaped its public image, but these narratives overlook the area’s strong community and cultural contributions.
6 - Marvila
A former industrial zone along the Tagus, Marvila is where Lisbon’s industrial past meets a creative, fast-evolving present. It was the site of the urban art festival MURO_LX in 2017, the year Lisbon was the Ibero-American Capital of Culture. That edition focused on Latin America, bringing artists like Kobra, Cix Mugre, and Gleo, whose works still pay tribute to Latin cultures across the neighbourhood. Marvila is also home to Vhils’ two galleries (Underdogs and Eterno) as well as cultural spaces like Fábrica do Braço de Prata and Marvila8, and a cluster of craft breweries with lively taprooms.
Historically, Marvila was shaped by factories, warehouses, and working-class housing tied to port activity. Many of these structures remain, their brick façades, disused tracks, and abandoned walls now covered in graffiti. In recent years, the area has drawn artists, designers, and independent entrepreneurs looking for space to experiment, making it one of Lisbon’s most intriguing neighbourhoods, still raw around the edges, but buzzing with creative energy.
7 - Casal dos Machados
Made up of just a handful of high-rise buildings, Casal dos Machados became a street art destination during the urban art festival MURO_LX in 2021. The works here were created by Portuguese and international artists around the theme of multiculturality, reflecting the neighbourhood’s own diversity, where different communities live side by side. The murals bring bold colour and shared narratives to this compact corner of southeast Lisbon, making them an integral part of the area’s everyday landscape.
8 - Parque das Nações
Built for Expo ’98, Parque das Nações is Lisbon’s showcase of modern architecture and waterfront redevelopment, and it’s also home to some standout street art. Here you’ll find works by Bordalo II, D*Face, and other internationally renowned urban artists, alongside a long wall curated during MURO LX_2021. In this district, the festival explored two main themes: sustainability, in the area around Oriente train station and Avenida de Pádua, and urban culture in the nearby Parque Tejo. Sleek and spacious, the neighbourhood combines wide promenades, contemporary buildings, and public spaces that feel far removed from Lisbon’s historic quarters. The large-scale murals add a creative edge to this modern landscape, showing how street art can connect even the newest parts of the city to broader cultural conversations.
9 - Cais do Sodré
Once a rough waterfront district known for its bars and hard-drinking sailors, Cais do Sodré has transformed into one of Lisbon’s most dynamic riverside areas. Along the sunlit stretch by the water and the rail tracks that run beside it, you’ll find a mix of large-scale murals and more spontaneous graffiti interventions. Highlights include Bordalo II’s striking fox sculpture on a derelict building, vibrant graffiti along the urban beach, and impressive murals by both Portuguese and international artists. It’s also home to Crack Kids, a graffiti shop and gallery that doubles as a hub for street culture in the city.
🎨 🏛 My Favorite Museums & Art Galleries in Lisbon.
🎨 Art Galleries
Underdogs Gallery — Lisbon’s Urban Art Pioneer
Founded by Vhils in 2010, Underdogs Gallery is one of Europe’s most respected urban art galleries. It works with a diverse roster of Portuguese and international artists connected to the urban-inspired contemporary art world, aiming to make art an everyday experience for the public. In the past, the gallery also curated murals around Lisbon, while more recently it has focused on pop-up exhibitions in unusual locations across the city.
Eterno Gallery — Street Meets Digital
This year, Vhils opened Eterno Gallery nearby, working with artists from street backgrounds but expanding into the realm of digital art.
Because Art Matters — Contemporary Urban Art @ Marvila8
Inside the concept space Marvila8, Because Art Matters showcases new contemporary art across genres, from fine art to street art, visionary art, sculpture, and everything in between.
Picoas Project Space — Art Underground
The most unique gallery in Lisbon might be this one hidden inside Picoas metro station, showing works by emerging local artists. This project is managed by Mais Uno +1 Collective, alongside other super cool activities.
↘️ Enter near the Deja Vu kiosk and look for the second shop on the left.
Crack Kids — Gallery, Graffiti Shop & Bookstore
Crack Kids is not just an urban art gallery but also a graffiti shop and a bookstore fully dedicated to street culture. (🤞Fingers crossed my upcoming Lisbon street art book will be on their shelves!)
🏛 Museums
Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro Museum + Garden — A Surreal Wonderland
This quirky museum celebrates Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a multifaceted artist from late 19th-century Lisbon, illustrator, painter, ceramicist, and one of Portugal’s first comic creators. After visiting the museum, cross Campo Grande to find the Bordalo Pinheiro Garden, which is hidden within Palácio Pimenta’s courtyard, itself a beautiful spot with peacocks wandering around and a mural by Mariana Duarte Santos. The garden is a dreamlike park populated by giant porcelain animals — climbing walls, hanging from trees, or peeking out from the bushes.
Lisbon Water Museum — UNESCO Heritage Without the Crowds
Run by Lisbon’s water company, the Lisbon Water Museum tells the story of the city’s water supply through four historic sites (18th–19th century), all UNESCO-listed but blissfully free of tourist crowds:
Águas Livres Aqueduct — A massive 18th-century aqueduct stretching 19 km.
Mãe d’Água das Amoreiras Reservoir — A monumental cistern that often hosts exhibitions.
Barbadinhos Steam Pumping Station — My favorite, with original 1880 steam machines still in place.
Patriarcal Reservoir — Striking stone pillars and arches beneath a domed ceiling.
MAAT — Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology
Overlooking the river in Belém, MAAT combines contemporary art, cutting-edge architecture, and technology-driven exhibitions.
MAC/CCB — Contemporary Masterpieces
Also in Belém, the MAC/CCB houses one of Portugal’s most important collections of modern and contemporary art, with works from Warhol to Picasso.
🎭 🏭 🌊 Non-Touristy Spots You Shouldn’t Miss in Lisbon:
🎭 For an Event or Just a Drink in Lisbon
Fábrica Braço de Prata — Lisbon’s Factory-Turned Cultural Venue
Once a war materials factory, Fábrica Braço de Prata closed in the 1990s and has since become a lively cultural hub. It’s far more easy-going and much less touristy than LX Factory (which has turned into a complete tourist trap). Here, things still feel spontaneous and rough-around-the-edges, including the street art on the surrounding inner walls, with the notable exception of a long piece by Vhils worth the trip alone.
The large yard hosts a summer concert stage, while inside you’ll find a café, a restaurant, an art gallery, two bookshops, a theatre, and a cinema.
Casa Independente — Vintage Charm & Cultural Events
Set in an ancient building in central Lisbon, Casa Independente is an artistic project filled with vintage furniture and character. Its various rooms host everything from activist meetings to concerts and cultural gatherings. The beautiful inner garden is perfect for a relaxed drink or a simple meal in a friendly atmosphere.
Village Underground Lisboa — Street Art & Shipping Container Spaces
A cousin of London’s Village Underground, Lisbon’s version is built from recycled shipping containers parked by the river, right next to the iconic 25 de Abril bridge. Around it you’ll find some great street art — including the only two visible Wasted Rita pieces left in Lisbon — plus a beer kiosk and an interesting, eclectic crowd.
🏭 To Explore Lisbon Beyond the Postcards (ha!)
Prazeres Cemetery — Monumental Tombs & Striking Views
Lisbon’s largest cemetery, Cemitério dos Prazeres, opened in 1833 after a cholera epidemic. Many well-known Portuguese artists and wealthy families rest here in ornate mausoleums that look like tiny houses, complete with carved tombs and statues.
The steep, mausoleum-lined alleys lead to sweeping views of the 25 de Abril Bridge, giving the place the feel of a ghostly, miniature San Francisco.
Graffiti-Covered Abandoned Factory Across the River
One of the highlights of my Lisbon street art trip last May, according to all participants, this abandoned site on the opposite side of the river is entirely covered in graffiti. Access is still possible, but other nearby factories have already been sealed and demolished — so visit while you can.
🌊 To Relax in Lisbon
Costa de Caparica — Surf, Sand & Ocean Views
I discovered Costa de Caparica while meeting Kampus for an interview for our upcoming Lisbon street art book, and I instantly fell in love. This long stretch of Atlantic coastline is perfect for a relaxed day trip, and if you surf, you’ll love it even more.
Park of Necessidades — A Peaceful Green Oasis
Parque da Tapada das Necessidades is a hidden gem offering a calm escape from the city. You’ll find duck ponds, peacocks, a beautiful cactus garden (my favourite part!), and stunning views over the Tagus River, all steeped in history and surrounded by lush greenery.
🍜🍎🍺 Where to Eat & Drink Between Murals
🍜 A Chinese Restaurant Hidden Inside an Apartment
At Oriente Dumpling Restaurant, the renowned dumplings live up to the palate of its many Chinese customers. I usually go for the vegetarian dumplings (super delicious!), the noodles with mushrooms, and the tofu with spicy sauce — and I’m probably forgetting something, but honestly, everything here is fantastic.
Tucked away on the second floor of an apartment in Mouraria and run by an elderly lady who speaks only Chinese, the atmosphere is as homey as it gets.
💡 Good to know: cash only, no cards.
🍸 The Place That Doesn’t Exist Up There
In Portuguese, Aquele lugar que não existe lá em cima is a secret rooftop bar with a strict no-photo policy, which I suspect is part of the concept to create some buzz. Hype aside, they serve excellent cocktails, and the roof terrace offers a stunning view over Marvila’s industrial cityscape.
🍎 The Food Market That Has It All: Mercado de Arroios
Inside the domed structure, you’ll find stalls with fresh produce. Outside, along the square, there are plenty of bistros, wine bars, and cafés. I love Pequeno for its many vegan options, but the pizza place is pretty good too.
🕗 The market is open only in the morning; the tascas and cafés stay open all day.
🌱 Vegan-Friendly Restaurants in Lisbon
Senhor Uva — A rich selection of vegan dishes (described as “botanical cuisine”) paired with an outstanding list of terroir-driven wines at this remarkable restaurant in Lisbon.
AO26 — Vegan twists on traditional Portuguese dishes.
O Gambuzino — Creative, inventive plant-based cuisine.
Pentagon — A laid-back neighbourhood café selling affordable art and cute books alongside vegan-friendly food.
🍺 Lisbon’s Craft Breweries
Both taprooms of my favorite Lisbon craft breweries are in Marvila, making it easy to visit them in one go (then tell me which one you liked best 😉).
Dois Corvos — One of the pioneers of Lisbon’s craft beer scene, offering IPAs, saisons, porters, and collaborations in a relaxed tasting room with snacks.
Musa — Known for its IPAs, lagers, stouts, and ales, brewed on-site. Features a lively taproom (plus a rooftop!) with live music and Portuguese/Brazilian-inspired bar food.
💻 Laptop-Friendly Cafés in Lisbon
Thank You Mama is, hands down, my favorite place to work from in Lisbon. It’s a creative hub for local artists, who can showcase their work on the café’s walls. They brew specialty coffee, make their own bagels, and offer plenty of vegan snacks and milks. It’s equally great for reading (they have magazines like The New Yorker lying around) or working uninterrupted, there’s even a quiet back room dedicated exclusively to remote workers.
🗺️ My Interactive Lisbon Map
As a subscriber, you have access to all my street art Google Maps.
You can always find the link to the map archive in the footer of each email newsletter👇
Just scroll down and click the button that says ‘Here are ALL my maps.’
🎥🎙️♫ 💌 Films, Podcasts, Music & Newsletters to Get in the Lisbon Mood
🎥 "Amo-Te Lisboa" — an ignominious street art movie by CANEMORTO
Shot over sixty days in Lisbon, this surreal, absurdist film follows the masked trio of CANEMORTO as they take over the city’s walls, from back-alley tags to large-scale interventions, while navigating the local art scene and its contradictions. Guided by their foul-mouthed deity Txakurra, they turn Lisbon itself into both canvas and stage, blending raw street action with biting satire in a chaotic love letter to the city.
Watch the full movie here👇
🎙️ Two podcast interviews with Lisbon’s urban legends: Vhils on BBC News and Add Fuel with Matt Gondek:
♫ I met these musicians from Lisbon at WOOL Festival earlier this summer, and I’ve been enjoying their music ever since:
💌 Finally, a few Lisbon-based newsletters to keep the inspiration going:
That’s my Lisbon, or -at least- the version of it I’ve pieced together through its walls, backstreets, and long conversations over coffee. I hope it inspires you to step off the beaten path, take a closer look, and maybe even get a little lost.
Next time, I’ll take you somewhere very different ⏭️ Athens.
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Amazing! Thank you!
I love it when you write about my city! The coolest thing is how well you know Lisbon, Giulia! I thought I knew it well, but often you know it better. As a Portuguese I can say that this guide is fire! 💥