Whose Walls Are They Anyway?
Travel with me: PARIS in January!
Ciao,
how are you?
I recently attended Rotterdam's All Caps street art festival, where I met Eneri, a pixadora from Brazil. Eneri is among the few women practicing pixação, a Brazilian artistic and political movement that amplifies the voices of the marginalized.
Pixação involves painting stylized black words in the most daring and inaccessible spots in São Paulo. Pixadores take big risks to give a voice to the marginalized and to reclaim the city. This movement's aesthetic draws inspiration from hardcore punk-rock album covers, taking those cryptic symbols and transferring them onto walls as a form of individual expression and political activism.
If you're intrigued by pixação, on the blog you’ll find an interview with one of its leading figures, Cripta Djan, written during my time at STRAAT.
What I really want to discuss here is that pixação isn't about creating beautiful murals. It is not meant to please the viewers -it’s quite the opposite.
However, when Eneri unveiled her mural at the festival, it caused quite a stir on social media and in the newspapers. Some residents were expecting bright, flowery murals like the ones painted by Sophie Mess and George Rose just a few blocks away.
This situation in Rotterdam raises an intriguing question: Should residents have a say in what gets painted in their neighborhood?
I'm not referring to graffiti, pixação, or unsanctioned street art, as they inherently don't require permission. However, as urban art festivals become more prevalent worldwide, their impact on public spaces grows significantly, especially since commissioned murals tend to be larger than graffiti or spontaneous street art pieces.
Should we, as residents, have a say in what appears on these walls, or should we simply accept it, much like we do with advertising?
On the flip side, if residents were allowed to decide through a voting system, we might end up with an abundance of pretty murals depicting photorealistic birds and colorful flowers, leaving no room for other forms of expression (by "other forms of expression," I mean not just conceptual art or political messages but any artwork that can't be turned into Instagram-worthy content).
One possible solution to this dilemma lies in community projects. These projects showcase the power of collaboration and local engagement in creating impactful public art. When murals emerge from a deeply participatory process that involves both the street artist and the local community, they not only beautify public spaces but also convey meaningful messages. They reflect the unique identity and values of the community while empowering various social groups within the city through the medium of mural art. Over the years, I’ve showcased plenty of ‘good practice’ festivals both here and on the blog, don’t take me for a pessimist. ;-)
Now, back to Rotterdam's All Caps festival. While they didn't initially follow this participatory approach, the organizers later invited locals to a Q&A session with Eneri. I sat in the room with great anticipation, but all those keyboard warriors who had insulted Eneri on Instagram didn’t show up.
This got me thinking: Eneri's bold and unapologetic statement had challenged the Dutch people to confront their historical role in exploiting and colonizing entire continents for centuries. Her mural posed tough questions, with one side asking, "How big is the debt of developed countries to the 3rd world?" while the other proclaimed, "The effects of colonization still persist." Finally, on a third side is written “Can be no peace where there is inequality and prejudice.”
Predictably, this direct confrontation didn't sit well with the Dutchies, and I suspect that, apart from aesthetic concerns, some may be reluctant to face the painful realities of their country's colonial history.
I genuinely believe that the local community could have benefited from a face-to-face conversation with Eneri, from understanding what pixação is and why it isn't meant to be aesthetically pleasing. In line with my blog's mission, I strongly believe that comprehending what's happening on the streets we traverse, on the train we take to get to work in the morning, and on the walls of our cities is crucial. That's why I've been writing about street art and graffiti since 2011 – to help you experience the public space actively, rather than passively.
If we approach graffiti and street art the same way we passively accept advertising in public spaces, we might miss out on the real beauty of it all, which doesn't always come in the form of a photorealistic bird or a colorful flower.
Until next month,
Giulia
ps. In October, I'll be in Ravenna for Eron's highly anticipated exhibition. Eron, a graffiti pioneer turned renowned muralist, will be showcasing his work at the Ex Convent of San Francesco in Bagnocavallo, Italy. If you're around, let's check it out together! 😊
pps. If you are reading this from the Substack App: the drone video I used for the preview was shot by Zane Mayer, from Chop ‘em Down films. Thank you Zane for letting me using it!
Travel with me :)
Let’s explore Paris together in January!
As mentioned in the previous newsletter, I'll be in Paris during the first week of January, conducting research for the blog, and potentially working on an ebook.
For the very first time, I'm extending an invitation for you to join me as I explore the city. I've put together six unique itineraries to delve into Paris' street art scene, along with some less-traveled gems like the stunning Mosque of Paris, monumental cemeteries, brutalist architecture, and urban wineries. (French wine, anyone?)
Each itinerary lasts almost seven hours, and you are free to choose the walks that inspire you the most.
Just to tease your imagination: we’ll visit an immersive street art exhibition and step into former factory complexes outside the city that have served as canvases for street artists and graffiti writers. We'll have the opportunity to meet artists in their studios, engage with urban art curators, and savour an abundance of French cheeses.
Are you in?
New on the Blog!
Street Art Beyond Barcelona: Granollers and Cardedeu.
The finest street art in Barcelona isn’t confined within the city limits. Instead, it thrives in what is known as the Greater Barcelona Metropolitan Area.
After taking you to Sabadell, this time I’m guiding you to Granollers and Cardedeu, two charming towns along the same train line that together offer a perfect day trip from Barcelona for street art enthusiasts.
¡Vamonos!
Updated!
Summer Day Trips from Rome.
I’ve added Tarquinia and Barbarano Romano to my list of hidden gems for a refreshing getaway.
I’ve also inaugurated a new category (Tap-Rooms & Breweries near Rome), which I plan to keep filling up even when the summer is gone. Check out the updates on the blog!
Vegan Restaurants in Rome.
Unsurprisingly, I’ve kept eating :) and so, I’ve added a couple of new addresses to the original article.
I have many more on my bucket list, though, so here's the deal: if you're visiting Rome and booking one of my alternative walking tours, we can dine together after the street art tour :) Let me know if you fancy the idea!
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Stuff I write when I’m not here:
I interviewed Dutch urban artist GOMAD for URBANEEZ, check it out: “I paint nature because I want us to be at one with it”
5 Urban Art Exhibitions in October 2023:
Apart from the Eron exhibition I eagerly anticipate attending in a few weeks, here are five other exhibitions worth checking out in October 2023.
Let me know if you go!
October 18 - October 21: Cinta Vidal’s pop-up show at Thinkspace Gallery in New York, USA. I visited Cinta’s studio when she was working at this show, and let me tell you: it’s going to be amazing!
On view ‘till October 8th: Street Art Photography by Martha Cooper and Nika Kramer at Mercerie, in Brussels, Belgium.
On view ‘till November 5th: Carrie Reichardt (whom I interviewed a while ago) at the Spode Museum in Stoke-on-Trent, UK.
On view ‘till December 9th: Moses & Taps at Palazzo Brami in Reggio Emilia, Italy.
On view ‘till December 20th: Ernest Zacharevic at B-East Gallery in Florence, Italy.
5 Urban Art Festivals in October 2023:
Also in this case, let me know if you go and tag me in your photos ;)
From October 11th to November 5th: Peinture Fraiche Festival is happening in Lyon, France.
From October 13th to 22th: Shine Festival is happening in St. Petersburg, Florida, USA.
From October 13th to 29th: Meeting of Styles is happening in different locations around Mexico.
Until October 22nd: West End Street Art festival is happening in Brisbane, Australia.
From October 23rd to 28th: Japan Walls in happening in Wakayama, Japan.
Liebe Giulia, alles sehr interessant, wie immer. Danke. Zuleika
Two days ago I finished to read Las venas abiertas de América Latina by Eduardo Galeano and today I found out about Eneri and pixação. 50 years later delivering the same message but with different media. A surprising coincidence for me.