Not Only Graffiti but Layers of History.
Athens Walls: Voices of Resistance.
Ciao,
how are you?
I’ve just come back from Athens, it was the last trip of 2024 organized for the readers of this newsletter as part of my research to write a book about the local street art scene.
When I kicked off this project last January with a trip to Paris, I already knew there would be a trip to Athens soon, because I consider Athens a key city to understand Europe’s graffiti and street art scene.
To say it in a nutshell, Athens' scene is among the most authentic in Europe.
While in many European capitals street art has been increasingly co-opted by institutions, often turning it into a sanitized tool for urban renewal and gentrification, in Athens you can still find plenty of spontaneous, political street art and a plethora of tags, throw-ups and graffiti, even on metro trains!
Athens is a mix of old-world charm and a fierce, unapologetic contemporary vibe that inspires some of the most genuine expressions in Europe.
Not only are graffiti and street art everywhere nowadays in Athens (a stark contrast to the postcard-pretty and spotless cities elsewhere in Europe), but it’s also common to find works from 10, even 15 years ago. I was thrilled to see those posters (yes, posters! made of paper!) by both TAXIS and STMTS that I first photographed back in 2014 were still up.
Despite its illicit nature and constant removal efforts, graffiti in Athens stands the test of time. There’s even a graffiti hall of fame in the city’s northern outskirts showcasing pieces dating back to 2010 -Athens’ own version of "modern ruins," where you can trace a decade of graffiti history as if you're strolling through a street art Acropolis!
The financial crisis first, and the pandemic after that, have left a dramatic economic impact on the country, and Athenians aren’t exactly silent about it. The walls of Athens speak loud and clear (after all, “clean walls, silent people,” right?)—and not only in the streets of Exarchia.
The whole city is a hub for political street art, filled with messages of resistance, solidarity, and activism. Athens’ walls are canvases for graffiti, posters, stencils and even murals that challenge authority, support refugee rights, promote anti-fascism, and critique social injustices.
These pieces serve as raw, powerful expressions of the community’s enduring commitment to free speech and political engagement.
Despite the evolving cityscape, Athens remains a vital space for countercultural voices and public dialogue on pressing social issues, keeping its revolutionary spirit alive.
Walking the streets of Athens with you, alongside some of the city’s leading street artists, I marveled at the unsanctioned, free creativity that blossoms on the walls here.
It was a trip full of encounters, because, in true Blocal spirit (which stands for “Be Local”), I interviewed several local artists to uncover their Athens and hear their unique perspectives.
Being guided through a metropolis by the street artists who call it home is the heart of my self-published street art book series, “As Seen on the Streets of…”
This upcoming addition to your bookshelf has been in the making throughout 2024, as I explored European capitals together with some of you, readers of this newsletter. And finally, after a year of hard work, unexpected twists, and plenty of persistence, the book on Paris (from our research trip together last January) is almost ready. I know, I know—I’ve been saying it’s almost ready for months! But self-publishing is no easy feat, especially when every detail, every challenge is yours to face alone. But this time, we’re really almost there—here’s a photo to prove it:
If you’d like to know more about the pre-order details, just reply to this email, and I’ll share everything with you.
Thank you for being part of this journey, and here’s to more adventures together in 2025! 🍻
Until next month,
Giulia
ps. Now I'm going into hibernation for a few months to focus on marketing the Paris book and writing the London book. I'll be in Rome until February, so I'm resuming my Rome Street Art Tours -if you're around, I'd love to show you my city! Then, from March, we'll be hitting the road together again! I've read all your feedback on cities to explore and possible dates, and I'm working to align them with my projects and other work commitments.
pps. by "hibernation," I don’t mean the newsletter is stopping! This monthly letter has been going strong since 2014, and you’ll still hear from me on the 1st of every month.
New on the Blog!
All About INO’s Murals in Athens: Locations and Stories Behind the Art.
Known for his powerful portrayals of modern society’s struggles, INO uses his art to address capitalism’s darker sides and the challenges faced by everyday people. His minimalistic approach — with limited shapes and a grayscale color palette — gives prominence to the underlying messages.
Street Art in Portsmouth: LookUp Festival Murals and My Dog Sighs’ Legacy.
For my final weekend in the UK, I had the incredible opportunity to join over 100 street artists from around the globe in Portsmouth, a charming coastal city in Hampshire, just a couple of hours from London.
Portsmouth also happens to be the hometown of my good friend and talented artist, My Dog Sighs, who showed me around during the second edition of the LookUp Street Art Festival. It was an inspiring few days, immersed in his city as it transformed with vibrant murals and creative energy.
Updated!
Street Art in Athens: A Decade of Discoveries.
The first version of this Athens street art guide was written 10 years ago. Over the years, I’ve returned to Athens many times, a city that remains a key hub for graffiti and street art in Europe. With each visit, I’ve updated this article, which is why its layout might feel a bit chaotic—much like the layered artwork found on the streets.
Enjoy the latest version of my Athens Street Art Guide, with updates from the recent trip I took together with some readers of this newsletter. 🥰
Where Do Locals Eat in Athens?
Ten years after writing the first version of my Athens Food Guide, I’m back in Athens, and since I’ve become a vegetarian over the past four years, I decided it was time to update this article with new recommendations.
Handpicked by Yours Truly
“Everywhere,” the movie on the origins of The Toasters collective, one of the best examples of ‘logo street art’ across the globe:
A new season of ‘Young Sheldon’ has been released! Set in the late 1980s and early 1990s, this show serves as a prequel to The Big Bang Theory, offering a look into the childhood of Sheldon Cooper (one of my favorite TV show characters ever!)
I always listen to the Marsheaux before and after a trip to Athens! They're a Greek musical duo from Athens, formed by Marianthi Melitsi and Sophie Sarigiannidou. Active since 2003, the duo is known for their synth-pop style influenced by the '80s, with electronic sounds reminiscent of bands like Depeche Mode and The Human League.
I watched “Lucky” (“Fortunata,” in Italian), a 2017 Italian film by Sergio Castellitto, featuring an outstanding Jasmine Trinca as Fortunata, a single mother fighting for a better life in the Roman suburbs. Trinca’s powerful performance earned her the Best Actress award at Cannes. The film explores resilience and dreams amid hardship, offering a raw and poignant view of life on society’s margins.
The unstoppable Disagian is still going strong, posting a video every week from his summer journey through Italy’s street art cities. The videos are in Italian, but they’re worth watching just for the visuals!
Stuff I write when I’m not here:
👇 The most clicked link last month 👇
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You gotta check out Museum of Graffiti in Wynwood Florida! Great spot!
This fantastic to see you are traveling and capturing the global creative community! Love the amazing efforts made to paint sides of buildings. I know from my past scale is always greater appreciated up close. Big shout outs to INO and those who have the courage to take on this feat! 👏🏽👨🏽🎨 I look forward to seeing more of your travels on Substack! Bravo!